We were invited by Atelier Roc to be part of the Art of Nature Exhibition at London Design Festival 2022. This takes place at Hart Shoreditch from 17-25 September.
“The exhibition takes us through the investigation and collage process using the natural world that surrounds us as inspiration. Atelier Roc brings a new perspective by transforming and coalescing silhouettes found in nature and in-turn creating unique woven designs.”
How were Hainsworth involved?Last year we partnered with Atelier Roc founder Yasmine Faress to create her first limited-batch throw collection, and the exhibition explores the design and fabrication process of these throws.It includes a closer look at the process of weaving Jacquard throws, from raw wool to the 100% merino wool throws on display at Hart.
We are proud to offer bespoke woollen jacquard fabrics to our Fashion, Costume and Interior customers. Our in-house Designer will work with you to develop cloth completely unique to your aesthetic, woven on our jacquard looms. The low minimums, which can be split over multiple designs, providing they use the same warp, allow you to source and develop ranges that are entirely exclusive to you. You can read more about our Bespoke offering here.
What is the process of weaving Jacquard Throws?
Designs are translated into woven fabric designs for the jacquard loom, using CAD software. The yarn colours are then selected from the Hainsworth range of shades, and a sample of the chosen fabric quality is approved for production.
A precise recipe of raw merino wools are blended to get the perfect mix of fibres. During this process the fibres are separated and opened, loose dirt is removed, and oils are added to lubricate the wool.
The newly blended fibres go through a series of rollers at varying speeds to clean and untangle, producing a continuous web of fibre. The machine controls and aligns the fibres as they pass through the rollers, finally separating into rounded strips called slubbings.
The slubbings are converted into yarn by applying a specific degree of fineness and permanent twist. The degree of fineness of the spun yarn is usually described by a numerical system of measurement called a count system.
5. Yarn Dye
Lab dips are created in the Hainsworth dye lab for colour approval. Once the shades have been signed off, the bulk yarns are dyed using reactive dyes for wool, ensuring REACH compliance. The dyed yarns are then tested for colour fastness and consistency.
The cones of yarn are loaded onto a creel (or rack) before being wound in long parallel lengths onto a beam in preparation for weaving. The warp is the yarn running down the roll and determines the length of the piece of fabric.
The throw designs are uploaded to the jacquard loom in preparation for weaving. The jacquard loom is capable of weaving fabrics with many woven structures which can be used side by side to create complex patterns. Once the warp is in place and the weft yarns have been loaded, weaving can begin. Each throw is woven with fringes at either end, producing one long continuous length of fabric.
8. Fringe twisting
The fringes are twisted using specialist twisting machinery at the Hainsworth mill. A quality inspection is then carried out to find and rectify faults or knots within the fabric. Any faults are picked and brushed out or mended with needle and thread.
The woven piece is lightly scoured and milled to shrink and felt the cloth, and to remove any oils previously added to the raw wool. Using water and heat, the cloth is shrunk down to exact dimensions and then fed through sets of rollers to create the desired thickness.
The piece goes through the Tenter machine to dry the fabric whilst ensuring it maintains its shape, a process traditionally done in the open air over wooden frame. Finally, the fabric goes through its last process on the blanket raising machine, to tease the fibres gently to the surface and create the soft ‘blankety’ finish.
More on the Exhibition
The exhibition includes other work from Atelier Roc, including a ‘Woven Forms’ installation, which uses the hotel’s staircase as a giant warp. Other textiles from Atelier Roc are displayed throughout the hotel; Yasmine has been commissioned to make custom cushions, throws and rugs which will be permanent fixtures at Hart.Hainsworth Marketing Manager Charlotte Law said
“We were pleased to be asked by Yasmine and her team at Atelier Roc to take part in this installation for London Design Festival. It showcases the skill involved in bespoke weaving, and demonstrates how a heritage mill can contribute to trend leading, vibrant interior design.”
If you are interested in bespoke jacquard weave, our team of textile specialists and designers can help. Please email Contact Us for more information.
About Atelier RocThe founder and director of Atelier Roc, Yasmine Faress leads a young and vibrant Interior & Architectural design studio in London that focuses on creating spaces and objects that combine functionality and natural aesthetics.About Hart ShoreditchHart Shoreditch is a Curio Collection by Hilton Hotel, which is in celebration of Shoreditch’s heritage of craftspeople and makers. Hart’s distinctive design and historic homages continue through the restaurant and rooms and are reflected throughout the rest of the building.