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Textile Glossary
Cutting through the jargon
This glossary is a resource aimed at helping share and simplify both generic and industry specific information, expertise and knowledge. This service is provided as a committment to visitors to our site and the industry as whole. Although we aim to ensure that all the content is correct, please bear in mind that some areas of the industry move fast and terminology and its application can change.
Package dyeing
A method of dyeing in which the liquor is circulated radially through a wound package.
Pad
Abbreviated form of padding mangle or padding. Note:. It is often used in conjunction with other process terms to describe sequential operations in dyeing, or finishing, e.g., pad-bake, pad-batch, pad-dry, and pad-steam. It is occasionally used also to describe processes carried out on a padding mangle as opposed to batchwise treatment padder.
Padding
Impregnation of a substrate with a liquor or a paste followed by squeezing, usually by passage through a nip, to leave a specific quantity of liquor or paste on the substrate.
Padding mangle
A form of mangle for the impregnation of textiles in open width in which the textile is passed through one or more nips. The textile may be saturated before passing through the nip, or impregnating liquid may be carried as a film on the surface of one of the bowls forming the nip.
Pairhaniphiran
Loose cloak-like shirt reaching down to the feet. Very popular as an article of wear in kashmir where it was made mostly of woolen cloth.
Paisley
A design originating in asia, traditionally in a teardrop shape with a curving point containing and surrounded by many small abstract and geometric designs.
Palatine
Little fur stole which takes its name from the princess palatine who, during the hard winter of 1676, wore a fur as a cravat.
Panama
A plain weave fabric traditionally of cotton or wool. Used for summer suitings and dresses.
Panne
A fabric which has had the surface flattened by heavy roller pressure giving it luster . Often done on pile fabrics, knits, or satins.
Paper-like
Refers to fabric with a crisp, noisy hand that suggests paper.
Parachute cloth
Lightweight, strong, compact fabric used for outerwear, luggage and parachutes.
Parchmentising
A finishing treatment, comprising a short contact with, e.g., sulphuric acid of high concentration, whose aim is to produce a variety of effects, depending on the type of fabric and the conditions used ranging from a linen-like handle to a transparent organdie effect. The treatment is applied mainly to cotton. Reagents other than sulphuric acid will also produce the effect.
Partially oriented yarn - poy
A continuous-filament yam made by extruding a synthetic polymer so that a substantial degree of molecular orientation is present in the resulting filaments, but further molecular orientation is possible. Note.1, the resulting yarn will usually require a positive draw-ratio in subsequent processing in order to orient fully the molecular structure and optimize tensile properties. Note 2: yarns of this type made by high-speed spinning are commonly used as a feedstock for producing draw-textured yarns.
Patchwork
Various colours or designs combined together in one design . May be print or yarn dye.
Percentage cover
Cover factor as a percentage of the maximum possible for a particular weave structure.
Percentage moisture content
The weight of moisture in a material expressed as a percentage of the total weight.
Perch
(1)a manually or mechanically operated contrivance consisting of a system of rollers over which fabric is drawn at open width for the purpose of inspection. (2) to inspect fabric in a vertical (hanging) position or at an angle inclined upwards away from the source of light. Note: the inclined position on a manual perch is obtained by holding the fabric forward when required. On a mechanical perch the angle is fixed by a low front roller. The purpose of perching is to inspect the product at different stages of manufacture and processing.
Perforated/punched
Holes or small motifs are punched out of the fabric with a metal roller forming a design or pattern.
Permanent press
A deprecated alternative to durable press.
Permanent set
The process of conferring stability of form upon fibres, yarns, or fabrics, usually by means of successive heating and cooling in moist or dry conditions.
Peshwaz
Long gown-like dress, consisting essentially of a choli (q.v.) Worn rather high to which a front-opening skirt is attached. The garment was worn at an early point by men, too, but is essentially to be regarded as women's apparel. Worn with much refinement and elegance 'on occasions of household festivals'. Literally, "front-opening".
Petia
An apron-like piece of cloth attached to the lower end of a choli (q.v.) Or kanjari (q.v.) And hanging down so as to partially cover the stomach.
Petite point
A small, slanting, needlepoint stitch that form even lines of a solid background . Used for pillows, slipcovers.
Photodegradation
Degradation caused by the absorption of light or other radiation and by consequent chemical reactions. Ultra-violet radiation is an especially potent cause.
Pick
To pass the weft through the warp shed in weaving.
Picking
Terms used to describe the process of the removal of faults in a woven woollen cloth before finishing.
Piece
A length of fabric of customarily accepted unit length. Note: a frequent contract practice is for the purchaser to specify a minimum piece length below which no pieces will be accepted. Alternatively, a 'cut-through' allowance is specified, the seller has to make in the case of all pieces less than the specified figure. The reason for such practices is the greater liability to waste in cutting out from short-length pieces than standard-length pieces. The term 'piece' is applied at all stages of fabric manufacture although often qualified, e.g., grey piece, or loomstate piece, the qualification is understood in commercial practice.
Piece dyeing
Dyeing in fabric form.
Piece-goods
Fabric sold by or on the piece.
Pieces
Small bunches of wool staple taken during sorting from various fleeces and sold in lots.
Pigment
A substance in particulate form that is substantially insoluble in a medium, but which is mechanically dispersed in this medium to modify its colour and/or light-scattering properties.
Pigment dyed
An insoluble colorant is applied to the fabric as a paste or emulsion, heat cured and bound to the fabric with resins or binders. The curing process can be controlled so the color will fade after washing, giving the garments a used worn look.
Pigment padding
The application of an aqueous dispersion of a pigment to a fabric by padding., note: lt is commonly used to describe the first stage of a process for the application of vat dyes to fabrics, followed by fixation of the vat dye through its leuco form. It is also used in the application of resin-bonded pigments.
Pigment printed
An insoluble colorant is printed on the fabric as a paste or emulsion, heat cured and bound to the fabric with resins or binders. Allows for the printing of fabrics with fiber blends that would be otherwise difficult or expensive to print.
Pile
A surface effect on a fabric formed by tufts or loops of yarn that stand up from the body of the fabric., note: originally nap and pile were used synonymously, but the present trend of using the two terms for different concepts is to be encouraged as providing a means of differentiating and avoidance of confusion.
Pill; pilling
Small accumulations of fibres on the surface of a fabric. Pills can develop during wear, and are held to the fabric by an entanglement with the surface fibres of the material.
Pinpoint oxford
An oxford weave fabric using fine yarns resulting in a small oxford texture. Usually cotton . Used for fine shirtings.
Pinstripe
A design using fine line vertical stripes, usually light color stripes on a dark ground.
Pique
A fabric characterized by a prominent, all-over geometric texture. It is most commonly woven on a dobby loom but it is also produced as a double knit. The most common textures are cords ( either vertical or horizontal) , birdseye, waffle, honeycomb and bullseye. Produced in a variety of weights and fibres.
Pirn
(1) a support, slightly tapered, with or without a conical base, on which yarn is spun or wound for use as a weft.(2) the weft package wound on the support defined in (1). (3) a relatively long but narrow package of yarn taken up on a cylindrical former during draw-twisting of continuous filament yarns.
Plaid
A pattern of stripes and bars that cross each other at right angles.
Plain stitch
A knitting stitch that shows a series of lengthwise ribs on the face( from the neck of the yarn loops), and cross wise loops on the back ( from the head of the yarn loops).
Plain weave
The simplest form of weaving in which a pick ( filling yarn) passes over the first end ( warp yarn), under the second and on continuously, over one end and under the next. The next pick alternates , passing under the first end, over the second , and on continuously under and over each end . Each filling row alternates, thus extending the fabric. Also called a one up one down weave.
Plain weave woollen fabrics
Woollen cloth woven with a plain weave. Each weft thread passes successively over and under each warp thread alternating each row.
Plied
Refers to a yarn consisting of 2 or more single yarns twisted together.
Plisse
A fabric with a puckered or pleated effect resulting from printing the fabric with caustic soda . The printed part of the fabric shrinks, causing the unprinted part to pucker.
Plush
1. A fabric with a thick cut pile, used in apparel, draperies, upholstery, stuffed toys . May be woven or knit. 2. Brushed or sheared fabrics are also sometimes referred to as plush.
Pockets
Even in the 17th century were the pockets still a small independent bag attached to the gusset. It is only with the appearance of the justaucorps that pockets are to be found, usually vertical at first, then mostly horizontal (from the 1680s onwards). Women's pockets, in the 18th century, were attached on a string and worn over the panier, to be reached by a slit on both sides of the dress.
Polished cotton
A cotton fabric with a luster. The luster may be due to the weave (often satin), or from application of a calendered finish, or both. The degree of luster can be moderate or bright.
Polishing
The treatment of tanned skins, or of fabrics, particularly pile fabrics, to increase luster by mechanical means, without compressing the material.
Polishing (yarn)
Operation(s) for conferring on yams a relatively high degree of smoothness of surface.
Poly(vinyl alcohol)
A term used to describe fibres composed of synthetic linear macromolecules of polyethenol (poly vinyl alcohol) of differing levels of acetalization. The iso generic name is vinyl.
Polyacrylonitrile fibre; pan fibre
A term used to describe fibres composed of synthetic linear macromolecules having in the chain at least 85% (by mass) of recurring cyanoethene (acrylonitrile) groups.
Polyamide (synthetic fibre) (generic name)
A term used to describe fibres composed of synthetic linear macromolecules having in the chain recurring amide groups, at least 85% of which are attached to aliphatic or cyclo-aliphatic groups. , note.. This limited definition was introduced by iso in 1977 as a consequence of the creation of a separate class for aramid fibres.
Polyamide, natural (fibre)
Natural fibres consisting of polymers containing the repeating group -co-nh-. Examples are silk, wool, and other animal hairs.
Polycarbamide (generic name); polyurea (fibre)
A term used to describe fibres composed of synthetic linear macromolecules having in the chain recurring aliphatic groups joined by ureylene groups which together comprise at least 85% (by mass) of the chain.
Polyester
A polymer whose repeating units contain ester linkages in the main chains of the macromolecules. , note: cross-linkable polyesters are resin-forming and linear polyesters are fibre-forming.
Polyester (fibre) (generic name)
A term used to describe fibres composed of synthetic linear macromolecules having in the chain at least 85% (by mass) of an ester of a diol and benzene-1,4-dicarboxylic acid (terephthalic acid)., note 1: this term is more restrictive than the chemical definition of polyester note 2.. In the u.s., the generic term is more broadly defined to encompass the use of aromatic dicarboxylic acids other than benzene- 1,4-dicarboxylic acid and also to include certain aromatic polyetherester fibres.
Polymer
A large molecule built up by the repetition of small, simple, chemical units.
Polymerisation
The process used to link small, simple, chemical molecules into a polymer.
Polynosic (fibre)
A term used to describe regenerated cellulose fibres characterized by a high initial wet modulus of elasticity and a relatively low degree of swelling in sodium hydroxide solution. The is0 generic name is modal.
Polyolefin (fibre)
A term used to describe manufactured fibres in which the fibre-forming substance is any long-chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of ethene (ethylene), propene (propylene), or other olefin units. The term includes the iso generic names are polypropylene and polyethylene.
Polypropylene (fibre) (generic name)
A term used to describe fibres composed of synthetic linear macromolecules having an aliphatic saturated hydrocarbon chain in which alternate carbon atoms carry a methyl group, generally in an isotactic disposition and without further substitution.
Polyurethane (fibre) (generic name)
A term used to describe fibres composed of synthetic linear macromolecules having in the chain recurring aliphatic groups joined by urethane groups which together comprise at least 85% (by mass) of the chain.
Poplin
A plain weave fabric with a fine, crosswise rib, the result of using finer warp yarns and heavier weft yarns and a higher thread count in the warp than the weft . Usually medium weight. Made in a variety of fibers but common in cotton and cotton blends . A common shirting fabric.
Potting
A finishing process applied mainly to woollen fabrics. The dyed fabric (which may have crabbed) is batched on a roller and is then immersed in water. The temperature of the liquor an duration of treatment depend on the effect desired. The fabric is cooled on the roller and re-batched end for end and the process is repeated. The fabric is finally wound off the roller and dried.
Powder bonding
A method of making thermally-bonded nonwoven fabric in which the fibre web or batt is bonded by the use of heat-sensitive powder dispersed within it.
Pre-shrunk
The fabric is allowed to shrink during finishing to reduce residual shrinkage in the final product.
Prepared for printing /dyeing
Fabric which has been made ready for dyeing or printing by performing all preliminary processes on the greige such as singeing, desizing, scouring, and bleaching.
Press mark
Undesirable shinning lines on the right side of the garment due to incorrect ironing.
Press ratio (alkali-cellulose)
The ratio of the weight of alkali-cellulose, after excess sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) solution has been pressed out, to the original weight of pulp.
Pressing
The application of pressure, with or without steaming or heating, (i) to remove unintended creases and to impart a flat appearance to fabrics and garments, (ii) to introduce desirable creases garments.
Print bonding
A method of making nonwoven fabrics in which there is controlled application of adhesive specific areas of the fibre web or batt by using printing techniques similar to those used colouration.
Printed & overdyed
Refers to fabrics which have been first printed then overdyed allowing the design to show through.
Printing
The production of a design or motif on a substrate by application of a colorant or other reagent, usually in a paste or ink, in a predetermined pattern.
Producer twist
The small amount of twist inserted during the production of multi-filament yarn by certain take-up systems such as pot, cap, or ring-and-traveler.
Proof
Fully resistant to a specified agency, either by reason of physical structure or inherent chemical non-reactivity, or arising from a treatment designed to impart the desired characteristics. Note 1: proofing treatments are defined by specified limits ascertained by test, and the use of the term related to the limiting conditions. Note2: 'resistant', 'retardant' or 'repellent' are appropriate alternatives when the resistance is less than full.
Proofed
Descriptive of material that has been treated to render it resistant to a specified agency. Note: a designation of materials as 'proofed' should indicate that the material conforms to definite standards.
Protein (fibre) (generic name)
A term used to describe fibres obtained from natural protein substances by chemical regeneration.
Pseudo Finish
Soft handling cloth with a face finish.
Pu coated
Refers to a fabric which has been coated with polyurethane, usually to make it waterproof but sometimes to give a firmer hand.
Pucker
A blister or puffed effect on the surface of the fabric . It may be the result of chemical treatment of the fabric or the result of using different yarns, yarns under different tension, or yarns of different shrinkage in one fabric.
Pucker
To draw up into folds or wrinkles.
Pucker embroidery
Fabric which has been embroidered in a such a way that the stitching purposefully causes a crinkle or pucker in the fabric.
Pull (sampling)
A sample of fibres abstracted manually from a bulk lot of raw material or sliver with a view to assessing the length and/or distribution of length of fibre within the sample.
Pulling (rag)
The operation of reducing rags and thread waste to a fibrous state.
Pulp (cotton)
Purified cotton linters usually in the form of standard sheets about 1 mm thick. Note: the preparation of the linters involves one or more pressure boils with sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) followed by hypochlorite bleaching, the severity and number of the boils depending on the use to which the resultant material is to be put. The fibres are composed of glucose units to the exclusion of other sugars and only 1-2% of the cellulose is soluble in sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) of 17.5% strength at 20˚c. Suitability for a specific purpose is determined by measurement of the viscosity of the product under standard conditions, and different viscosity ranges are usually specified for material to be used for man-made fibres, lacquers, etc. The material is also supplied in pressed bales.
Pulp (wood)
Cellulose fibres isolated from wood by chemical treatments. Note 1: the preparation of wood pulp involves the boiling of wood chips with alkaline liquors or solutions of acidic or neutral salts followed by bleaching with chlorine compounds, the object of these treatments being to remove more or less completely the hemicelluloses and lignin incrustants of the wood. The purified fibres are usually pressed into standard sheets about 1 mm thick, and commercial material retains 4-12% of carbohydrates soluble in 17.5% soda at 20˚c, the actual content depending on the severity of the purification treatments. Note 2: mechanical wood pulp is obtained by wet-grinding bark-free wood in stone or other mills. The material is used largely in admixtures with bleached pulp for newsprint and is quite different from wood pulp as defined above in note 1.
Punching (wool industry)
A winding operation that prepares four-end balls of sliver for a noble comb.
Pure New Wool
Yarn or cloth made of Fibres of 100% Animal Fibre.
Pyjama
Trouser-like garment, worn on the lower part of the body alike by men and women. Literally, 'leg-clothing'. The pyjama was worn in many cuts and shapes, much variation being seen in respect of girth, length, tightness, material, etc.
Pyjama
The word derives from the hindustani epai-jama. Pyjamas were already worn in
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The Mirage Casino in Las Vegas only wanted the best for their casino tables. Hainsworth was able to supply cloth dye-matched to the exact pantone colour specified.
